Before & After Photos

This Bradley Beach homeowner had damage to his facia board that was caused by squirrels. The fascia board on a house is the vertical finishing edge that caps the end of the rafters, and is often where the home’s gutters are attached. Squirrels had chewed and clawed their way right through fascia. 

Another common trouble spot around the roof often damaged by wildlife is the soffit. The soffit is the finished wood or vinyl horizontal underside (water-resistant vinyl is preferable) beneath the overhanging section of the roof eave. Soffits, which have small holes to help ventilate the attic, are often a magnet for attracting small animals and insects.

A Cowleys wildlife technician had already resolved the squirrel issue, and I was called in to do the repair and exclusion work. Cowleys has a crew of technicians with extensive experience in home construction. Our projects include installing TAP insulation, waterproofing crawl spaces, treating mold, and repairing damage caused by wildlife.

The homeowner was insistent that he did not want the expense of removing his gutters, replacing the damaged fascia board, and re-installing the gutters. So, I took a more expedient approach that would leave the fascia in place. First, I needed brown aluminum to match the brown fascia board. This was easier said than done. It was a challenging job. In order to do this, I had to remove the supports for the gutter, and I had to do this a section at a time so the gutter would not fall. While the supports were off, I slid the the brown aluminum between the gutter and the fascia board to cover the damaged areas.

The next step to this process was to install a white sheet-metal drip edge. The drip edge is flashing installed along the edge of eaves. To install it, I slid the edging up under the shingles and carefully bent it so that it would wrap down on top of the brown aluminum layer. To fit the drip edge to size, I used tin snips, and allowed an overlap where the two pieces of drip edge meet so there would be no gap where water could potentially seep through. 

A drip edge is an important part of roofing that is often overlooked or not understood by homeowners. This drip edge is what gives a finished look to the roof and it also goes long way preventing rainwater from causing damage to the wood building materials near the roof. The drip edge helps keep out rainwater by preventing blow-under leaks caused by wind-driven rains and by directing rainwater into the gutter instead of running down the fascia where water, over time, can wreck havoc. 

A drip edge also helps prevent wildlife infestations. Moisture and water intrusions easily ruin wooden facia boards, and as this homeowner found out, fascia that weakened and softened by rain is also an open invitation for many types of wildlife like squirrels and raccoons to gain access inside the attic. These animals can rip and claw their way through weakened fascia like it was butter.Finally, a drip edge acts as a support for the shingles so they are not just hanging off the edge of the roof.

This homeowner in Rumson, NJ decided it was time to get rid of all the moisture in his crawl space and utilize it for storage, but he had no idea what to do. So he called Cowleys and we were sent out to insect and encapsulate.

After a thorough inspection, we noticed that the crawl space was in disarray and the insulation was dirty and soaked with moisture. Using our hygrometer, we noticed the humidity levels were extremely high. Fortunately, no mold had developed. Crawl spaces can spell trouble. As a subterranean space, they are often the primary point of entry for water and moisture, and they are the root cause of many home problems – including problems that affect your family’s health.

After speaking with the homeowner and discussing options, we went to work. First, we removed all the debris and contaminated insulation and then leveled the ground for proper draining. Afterward, we installed a drainage matting, which is a dimpled plastic mat that allows excess moisture to work its way over to the new sump pump we installed. We then filled the outside of the hole of the sump pump area with stones which will allow water to filter downward.

Next, we installed a vapor barrier which is a 20-mil 7-ply sandwich of high and low-density polyethylene with a polyester-cord reinforcement. It cannot tear, is extremely durable, and is treated with an antimicrobial finish that protects against mold and mildew growth. Once the vapor barrier was down, we installed SilverGlo™ along the walls of the crawl space. SilverGlo™ is a durable and waterproof rigid foam insulation that seals the walls from outside moisture and humidity.

Lastly, we installed a Sani-Dry Sedona dehumidifier. This heavy-duty, commercial-grade dehumidifier directs the extracted water pulled out of the air directly into the sump pump. Now the crawl space will no longer have any issues with high humidity levels, mold or mildew growth, and will create a healthy environment for the family.

This homeowner in Rumson, NJ was tired of having an excessive amount of moisture in his crawl space, so he called our office to encapsulate it. Excessive moisture in your crawl space can have a major impact on your family’s health. In fact, 50% of the air in your home comes up through the crawl space — which means that moisture and mold can seep into your home, where you're breathing it in. After surveying the crawl space, we noticed that the homeowner had a dirt floor crawl space. Dirt floor crawl spaces attract and absorb moisture. When the dirt dries, the moisture from the dirt ground evaporates up into the crawl space, which causes humidity levels to rise in your home. After a thorough inspection, we determined that this was the cause of the moisture build-up in the crawl space.  

First, we leveled the ground for proper draining and installed drainage matting. This material is a dimpled plastic mat that allows all excess moisture to work its way over to the sump pump. Once we finished, we installed a vapor barrier which is a heavy-duty, 20-mil 7-ply sandwich of high and low-density polyethylene with a polyester-cord reinforcement. It cannot tear and is extremely durable. The vapor barrier is also treated with an antimicrobial to prevent mold and is installed over the foundation walls and floor to create a continuous air and moisture barrier.

Next, we installed SilverGlo™ on the walls of the crawl space. SilverGlo™ is a waterproof foam insulation that seals the walls from outside moisture and humidity. Lastly, we installed a Sani-Dry Sedona commercial-grade dehumidifier to control the humidity levels. The Sedona directs the extracted water pulled out of the air directly into the sump pump.

Recently, I was dispatched to a home in Long Branch, NJ that was plagued by mice. Vermin were running around the basement and first floor of the home as if they owned the place. And based on the level of infestation, I have to admit, they temporarily had the upper hand!  But now that I was here, it’s game over for these rodents. 

Mice are overwintering pests that make their way into homes as outdoor temperatures drop. They can potentially contaminate food and leave droppings wherever they go. Mouse and other rodent infestations pose a serious risk for transmitting Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS) and other serious diseases. HPS is an infectious disease that starts with flu-like symptoms and can progress to life-threatening respiratory problems. Any activity that puts you in contact with rodent droppings, urine, saliva, or nesting materials can place you at risk for infection. Also, when mouse droppings dry and are disturbed, particles can become airborne and you can actually breathe them in. That’s why you never want to go into a small enclosed area where there is a rodent infestation without proper personal protective equipment like HEPA masks.

Mice tend to enter homes through access points in and around the foundation to get inside the basement or crawl space. Once there, they use wall voids to speed throughout the house, usually finding their way to the kitchen because of all the food attractants. Since mice are so small, there are often many entry points we are unaware of. They only need an opening about the size of a dime to make their way in. As such, they can easily squeeze their way inside through gaps and cracks in the foundation. Also, I’ve seen many homes where the mice have run along the sill plate until they find gaps around piping entering the home, such as a gas pipe behind the stove or water lines under the kitchen sink. 

During a rodent inspection, I generally start with the kitchen since this is their usual target destination. I then work backward to see how they are gaining access to the kitchen. With this home, after inspecting the kitchen for evidence of mouse activity, I moved to the basement where the homeowners had noticed most of the rodent activity. I inspected the entire home and even found mouse droppings in the attic, indicating to that mice had made their way throughout every floor of the home. 

While baiting for mice in the different areas of the home, I noticed daylight by the sill plate in the basement right by some wires. If daylight can shine in, it’s a good indication that there is enough of an opening for mice. A mouse can enter a home through a hole as small as the diameter of a dime. Since mice don’t have collarbones, if a mouse is able to poke its little snout through a hole, the rest of its body will follow. Upon further inspection, I found a large hole in the foundation — a hole large enough for a rat to enter let alone a tiny mouse. Someone had stuffed the hole with a rag. With the teeth and claws of a rodent, a rag would do absolutely nothing to deter a determined mouse or rat from getting into the house. I stuffed the access hole with chew-proof copper mesh to block any more rodents from entering. With the bait stations set up throughout the home, it will not take long for the rodent population to substantially decline. The objective, of course, is to get the rodent population down to zero. One mouse roaming around a home is one mouse too many!

I scheduled a two-week follow up to reinspect, replace the bait in the stations as needed, and determine if additional bait stations are necessary. With a heavy mouse infestation, it is important to have successive follow-up visits until there is no more observable rodent activity. 

Recently, I went on a service call for a new residential client in Long Branch, NJ who contacted us to resolve an issue with birds nesting inside her home. Before beginning my inspection, I spoke to the homeowner about the bird infestation. Whenever possible, I always try to speak with homeowners about whatever rodent, pest or wildlife issue they are dealing with. This preliminary information helps me identify the problem, target my inspection, and find the best solution. Here, the homeowner told me that she saw a bird hovering around on the exhaust vents on the side of her home. Birds are attracted to exhaust and dryer vent ducts to nest because they are private places to lay their eggs hidden from potential predators and they like the warm air that flows through them. So, I already had a good idea of the problem.

As I inspected the exterior of the home to find the birds’ point of access, I came across a damaged plastic exhaust vent. Contractors debate plastic vs metal vent covers, and plastic has certainly become more popular in recent years, especially the new plastic resins like polypropylene. Unfortunately, there are also cheaper plastic vents installed that are prone to cracking and breaking down from exposure to the sun and the harsh outdoor elements. Over time, plastic exhaust vents can get beaten up pretty badly. Occasionally, when the fan turns on, the vent fins get stuck open, and that was the case here. As often happens, birds exploit the vent opening to build a nest inside the home. Damaged exhaust vents not only allow birds and other critters to gain access to your home but also allow moisture to come in, which can lead to mold and mildew problems. However, the biggest risk of all is the nesting material obstructing airflow and creating a fire hazard.

After carefully removed the nest, I sanitized and deodorized the vents with a solution that targets bird mites. Bird mites are parasites that feed on the blood of birds. When birds leave their nests, the mites are left behind without a suitable host for their next blood meal. They will make their way into a home, and once inside they will take over, climbing all over your walls, ceilings, and beddings. To make matters worse, bird mites are tiny and semi-transparent, so they are extremely difficult to detect.  Bird mites are the main reason why extreme care is needed when removing a nest. The last thing you want to do is disrupt the mites that are crawling in and around the nesting material. 

After removing all remnants of bird activity, I replaced the vent with a newer, upgraded exhaust vent with new fins. As added security, I placed a screen on the inside of the vent to prevent any more birds from attempting to access that area. Now, after completing this job, this home is bird-free with a new and improved exhaust vent. Best of all, there is a homeowner who is immensely relieved that her bird problem is gone!